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Lombok (population 2,950,105 in 2005) is an island in West Nusa
Tenggara province, Indonesia. It is part of the chain of the Lesser
Sunda Islands, with the Lombok Strait separating it from Bali to the
west and the Alas Strait between it and Sumbawa to the east. It is
roughly circular, with a "tail" to the southwest, about 70 km across
and a total area of about 4,725 km² (1,825 sq mi). The administrative
capital and largest city on the island is Mataram.
History
From the Seventeenth Century on, Lombok was under control of a few Balinese
Monarchs. Trade for Bali was mainly through Lombok, because Bali was hard to
reach for the very large ships.
In the Nineteenth Century there was lively sea traffic with Singapore.
On Lombok a Danish and British trade centre were established. During a
civil war between the rivalling Balinese monarchs these trade centres
played a big role. The Dutch also tried to found a trade centre on Lombok,
but were sent off because the British advised as such.
A mission of the D(utch) T(rade) A(association) (N(ederlandsche) H(andels)
M(aatschappij) succeeded: the susuhunan of Bali (and Lombok)
allowed the DTA to open trade centres in Kuta and Kusamba.
The Monarch of Kloengkoeng did have one condition: he wanted a
Java rhinoceros for present. So, in 1839 a rhinoceros was transferred to
Bali. Later it would be traditionally offered.
In the nineties the people on Lombok rebelled against the reigning Balinese
monarchs. Especially monarch Anak Agoeng Madé was notorious for his cruelties
against the locals, the Sasaks.
A few Sasaks leaders asked Batavia for help against their Balinese oppressors.
Especially help with the struggle against monarch Anak Agoeng Madé.
In this period the Balinese radja of Lombok was loanlord of the monarchs on
Bali and different Balinese pagans helped their loanlord on Lombok. A complicated
situation, and this in the middle of the not so successful first Aceh pacifications.
A complete discussion arose: should they interfere or not.The new Governor-General
van der Wijck made the decision: we will interfere! So in March 1894 an expedition
army, under leadership of General Vetter, landed on the coast of Lombok.During the
entering of Mataram the Balinese monarch Anak Agoeng Madé, who had oppressed the
Sasaks population the most, committed suicide and so the direct motive had
disappeared.
Further negotiations with the Balinese radja of Lombok apparently went well,
because the power of the Dutch troops was overwhelming. Also the help troops
from Bali knew that from a military point of view they were nothing compared
to the Dutch. But, as was usual those days, all costs of the invasion still
had to be paid....
Costs of this expedition were estimated to be 1 million guilders: a ridiculously
high amount to pay for that time and especially for the Balinese radja. Still,
halfway in August a quarter of this amount had been raised already. In this
period General Vetter had distributed his troops throughout the island. And
then it went wrong..:
The Balische monarchs suspected (rightly) that the Dutch might not be leaving
after payment of the confinement, and that, in the least, new demands would be
made. After a while they realised that the Sasaks request for help had only
been an occasion for Batavia to finally 'pacify' Lombok completely. They also
knew what was happening in Aceh. They decided to resist until the end.
And suddenly, one night, the Dutch troops were attacked without a warning:
almost a hundred people were killed (amongst them General van Ham) and over
250 people were wounded. Until then, it was the biggest defeat that the
Dutch colonial troops had suffered in the Nineteenth Century. The Dutch
also lost the already begotten war estimation.
In Holland, the public opinion screamed vengeance: Pieter Brooshooft, main
editor of a newspaper that was sold on Java, instantly called the incident:
"The treason of Lombok".
The reason that the Dutch were even there, the conquering ('pacification')
of Lombok (that's what it finally was all about!), was not even discussed
of course. The real cause of the defeat was never accounted for in the press:
the one-liner of Brooshooft was enough. The propaganda machine started to run hard.
Even in 1934, a Dutch military that had been there said that, seen from a
martial point of view, it had not been treason, but a 'completely legitimate
act of war '. But the propaganda machine had already done its work...
"The treason of Lombok" was seen as a national disaster and emotions could
not be controlled.With the help of new troops Lombok was pacified. With a lot
of harsh violence because The treason of Lombok had to be broken at all costs.
The damage was large: first, the artillery shot everything between Ampenan and
Mataram. Anything that was still standing after that was more or less razed
to the ground. After that, neither Ampenan nor Mataram were barely standing.
The damages done were so thorough that some people of the press wondered:
"what's the use of destructing everything that which one later wants to have
power over ?"
Victims on Lombok were neither counted because "resistance had to be broken".
Still, they hesitated to attack Cakranegara, where the radja resided. They
waited until there were about 10,000 soldiers. Everything between Mataram and
Cakranegara was demolished: the artillery wanted to have space to attack.
The radja sent a plea, which was answered, by direct order of GG van der
Wijck, with grenades. The radja claimed to know nothing of the nocturnal
attack on the Dutch; he had not paid all that money for nothing? It was
all in vein: nothing helped.
Cakranegara was attacked and conquered. The radja escaped but later
surrendered and he was banned to Batavia. The last monarchs committed
suicide by a Perang Poepoetan : men, women and children in white clothing
threw themselves on the perplexed Dutch, who kept shooting. One of the many
Perang Poepoetans during the pacification in the Nineteenth Century.
During a large manifestation on the Malieveld in The Hague in June 1895,
Queen Emma and Princess Wilhelmina awarded decorations to the "Heroes of Lombok".
Still, even in the Parliament a discussion arose whether it had been necessary
to use so much violence during the pacification of the Dutch Indies...
The member of parliament Victor de Stuers stated already in 1905 :
" Let me count the 'savages' we have killed in seven years, 15,802, killed
by the peacefull Dutch."
A newspaper published a cartoon, stating that the de Stuers as a Christian
cannot withstand blood! Laugh at him, laugh at him!
At the same day (26 August 1894) as the 'treason of Lombok' the Dutch Social
Democratic Party was set up. One of the founders Mr. Van Kol did exactly knew
what has happened on Lombok and Bali. In one of his first speeches he presented
a eye-witness report about the cruelties. A little bit difficult to translate,
but summarised he asked for respect and forgiveness and shamed himself.
Geography and demographics
The Lombok Strait marks the passage of the biogeographical division between
the fauna of the Indomalayan ecozone and the distinctly different fauna of
Australasia that is known as the Wallace Line, for Alfred Russel Wallace,
who first remarked upon the distinction between these two major biomes.
The island's topography is dominated by the centrally-located stratovolcano
Mount Rinjani, which rises to 3,726 m (12,224 ft), making it the third-highest
in Indonesia. The most recent eruption of Rinjani was in June-July, 1994.
The volcano, and its sacred crater lake, 'Segara Anak' (child of the sea),
are protected by a National Park established in 1997. The southern part of
the island is a fertile plain where corn, rice, coffee, tobacco, and cotton
are grown.
The island's inhabitants are 85% Sasak (a people, related to the Balinese,
but mostly practising Islam), 10-15% Balinese, with the small remainder being
Chinese, Arab, Javanese, and Sumbawanese.
Gili Trawangan
Gili Trawangan is the largest of Lombok's Gili Islands and is the only one
to rise significantly above sea level. It is 3km long and 2km wide with a
population of about 700. Of the Gilis, Trawangan has the most tourist
facilities; the pub Tîr na Nôg claims that Trawangan is the smallest
island in the world with an Irish pub. The most crowded part of Trawangan
lies on the eastern side.
On Gili Trawangan (as well as the other two Gilis), there are no motorized
vehicles. The main means of transportation are bicycles (rented by locals
to tourists) and cidomo (a small horsedrawn carriage). For traveling to and
from each of the Gilis, locals usually use motorized boats and speedboats.
Some of the first inhabitants of Gili Trawangan were from Sulawesi who are
fishermen and farmers. Previously Gili Trawangan was covered in forest and
deer lived on the island.
The economy of Gili Trawangan centres on tourism, as the island is too small
to support any broad scale agriculture, and too remote to allow economically
viable industry or commerce. Prices for
property on Gili Trawangan range between 15 and 20 US$.
Gili Meno
Gili Meno is the middle of Lombok's three Gilis. It has population of
about 300, mainly concentrated on the center of the island. The main income
of the population comes from tourism, coconut plantation and fishing. On the
west side of the island there is a small shallow lake that produces salt in
the dry season. Until a few years ago there was also a small production of
seaweed on the reef at the north end of the island. It has swimming beaches
all around the island, as well as an impressive bird sanctuary.
Gili Air
Gili Air is the smallest of the Gilis and it's closest to the Lombok mainland,
making it popular with honeymoon couples and travelers seeking a quiet retreat.
It has population of about 1,000 and administratively lies in the West Nusa
Tenggara province. The island offers excellent snorkeling and SCUBA diving
off its east coast, and turtles can be seen along the coral reef.
Senggigi
Located on the western coast of Lombok is the small village and resort area of
Senggigi. Tall coconut trees shadow two stunning bays and the white sand beach
of Senggigi. The bays are ideal for swimming snorkeling and other popular water
activities and its impressive hillsides provide a dramatic backdrop and breathtaking
scenic road trips along the coast to the north.
Senggigi over the years has become the most popular tourist area of Lombok,
presenting a diverse range of hotel accommodations, from deluxe four-star resort
properties to simple home-stays. As well, restaurants, cafes, entertainment
venues can all be found along the main Senggigi road and on certain areas along
the beach.
Sekotong
Sekotong, South West Lombok, is unique amongst the other dive locations
around Lombok. Here one finds diving as individual experiences at exclusive
new dive sites around the south coast, and special day trips with the chance
to go exploring in undiscovered waters. Located in the tropical bay of Sekotong,
an 1,5 hour drive from Senggigi you can find the Sundancer 5star resort, and
the location promises tropical sun, fabulous diving and short ways to and from
the boats.
With over 3,500 species living in the Indonesian underwater world, there is
one of the richest diversities of marine life to be found in this Indo-Pacific
region. In comparison, the Great Barrier Reef has just 1,500 species and the
Red Sea only 600. The dive sites in South Lombok reflect a good cross-section
of what Indonesia has to offer, and you can “Dive in” and be fascinated by
turtles, white tip reef sharks, cuttle fish, moray eels, frog fish, ghost
pipefish and much, much more. South Lombok presents itself as a highlight
for photographers and all scuba enthusiasts.
Not a diver? Not a problem. The fascinating islands along the south coast
welcome you with white sandy beaches for swimming, snorkeling and relaxing.
Join a boat trip and view the breathtaking scenery of Lombok’s coastline and
experience the pristine beaches while the divers are on the way. During the
breaks you can enjoy the relaxed picnic together and have fun. There are also
quiet a few opportunities to get into diving. You can do a “Scuba try out”
free of charge in the shallow water. A qualified dive instructors or dive
master will explain the scuba gear to you, and you can try out how
comfortable you feel in the water breathing "bottled" air.
Prices for
Property in the Sekotong area
are still very moderate.
Kuta Lombok
Kuta-Lombok is a fairly small village situated on a lovely bay with snow-white
sand in the south of the island. On the beach road there is a collection of
budget homestay places and one mid-ranger.
The countryside is fairly flat east of Kuta and there are a number of deserted
or near deserted bays with gorgeous Bounty Ad. Type beaches until you reach a
big Sydney Harbour type inlet. There is a fairly big fishing village at the
road’s end.
There are several great viewpoints back over Kuta’s lovely bay part way up and
from the summit. On the other side is Mawan, a bigger bay than Kuta with a
really nice beach. There are several access points, the closest to Kuta having
a small charge put on entry to their beach - only abt 50cents and they have
cold soft drinks and beer for sale. The valley behind the beach is largely
undisturbed jungle with scattered cash cropping, its disorganized beauty
contrasting so much with the spectacular order of much of Bali’s terraced
padi and cash-cropping areas.
Kaliantan Area
Kaliantan, in the southeast of Lombok develops to a new area for Resort projects.
It is widely known for having the most impressing beaches on Lombok with excellent
spots for surfing, diving and snorkeling. The coasline is extremely beautiful, with
many pristine beaches and wonderful views across the water to neighbouring Sumbawa.
Alltogether there is
1.500 ha land available
for touristic projects on the coastline, with white beaches and the cristal clear
water of the indian ocean.
The Government already took steps to develop the infrastruture in the region.
Roads, clean water, power supply and telecommunication is already in place.
The region is in about 30 minutes reach of the
new international airport.
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The Sasak
Whereas most Balinese are Hindu, Lombok's population is mainly made up
of the island's indigenous Sasak people, most of whom are Muslims.
Entering one of the traditional villages, our guide reminds us that
"this is not a museum, live people live here".
The 700 people, described by guide Anaf as one big family, live here
in a cluster of 150 thatched houses.
Sade, situated near Kuta beach, is not a tourist setup but they do
welcome visitors. Guides like Anaf show tourists around for a small donation.
There's nine other villages in this family, housing 4,200 people, with
Sade being the oldest, "the mother of the villages".
The Sasak people here continue a number of traditions, although some things
have been adapted to the times. "It's our tradition, if you like a girl
you have to `kidnap' her," Anaf says. And so the parents live downstairs
in a Sasak house, with the daughters sleeping up higher, next to the
cooking area, until they're 15 because then "it's difficult to kidnap them".
Of course nowadays everyone has a mobile phone. "The kidnappings happened
long, long ago, not now," Anaf says. After a call or a text message:
"The girls wait at the front of the houses. It's more easy to kidnap them."
The first job of a Sasak family is still farming. And the girls have to
learn how to weave the multi-coloured, intricate sarongs and songket fabric.
"Weaving is very important, it's passed down from mother to daughter," Anaf says.
"If the girl can't do weaving they're not allowed to get married in here."
It's also known for its pottery. And of course there's the diving, snorkelling,
hiking and surfing. Horse carts or cidomos blend in with cars and scooters
in Mataram, and life generally moves at a slower pace than in Bali (which
is hard to imagine when you first arrive in Bali and quickly discover
everything moves according to Bali time).
"Tell your family to come to Lombok because Lombok is still natural,"
Anaf says as we leave. "In Bali, Kuta 20 years ago was still developed,"
he says. "It's more than 20 years ago, I would say even 30 to 40.
"It's (Lombok) still natural. There's not too many places in the world
where it's still very authentic." He's confident Lombok can retain its own
unique character even with the Emaar development. "Bali is crowded ...
We are far better in terms of beach here. "There's a few Aussie guys living
here and they surf all day, living here in semi-retirement."
"When you see the sunset, it's breathless. You think `wow, this is beautiful'."
Economy and politics
Lombok has much in common with nearby Bali, but less well-known and less-visited
by foreigners. It has been working to increase its visibility to tourists in
recent years, promoting itself as an "unspoiled Bali". The most-developed
center of tourism is Senggigi, spread in a 10-kilometer strip along the coastal
road north of Mataram, while backpackers congregate in the Gili Islands off the
west coast. Other popular tourist destinations include Kuta (distinctly different
from Kuta, Bali) where surfing is considered some of the best in the world by
leading surfing magazines. The Kuta area is also famous for its beautiful,
untouched beaches.
While the area may be considered economically depressed by First World
standards, the island is fertile, has sufficient rainfall in most areas
for agriculture, and possesses a variety of climate zones. Consequently,
food in abundant quantity and variety is available inexpensively at local
farmer's markets. A family of 4 can eat rice, vegetables, and fruit for as
little as US$0.50. Even though a family income may be as small as US$1.00
per day from fishing or farming, many families are able to live a happy and
productive live on astonishingly small incomes.
In early 2000 thousands fled from religious and ethnic violence that swept
over the island, and tensions remain. Some travel websites warn that tourists
sometimes provoke anger in this economically depressed region. This warning
lacks credibility, since all of Lombok has had a long history of welcoming
visitors to the island. Both the government and many of the residents recognize
that tourism and the services required by tourists is Lombok's highest source of
income. Further proof of the island's hospitality is show by the fact that tourists
are virtually never seriously injured by any interaction with the local population.
While many of the local population are friendly, there is certainly an element of
danger and numerous travelers have shared accounts of violance, particularly in
the Kuta region where locals, displaced by hotel projects, resent foreign presence.
There is also a refugee camp on the island, costs paid for by Australia, which
holds mostly Hazara Afghans who have tried to enter Australia by boat.
Emaar, Emirati property company
planned to build a new town sprawled in 1,200
hectares in Central Lombok. It costs estimated at US$600 million. It will have
a 7 km natural waterfront, which will support a marina, apart from luxury
residences and five-star resorts by Ritz-Carlton[1]. The Ritz-Carlton will
also have a world class golf course and retail amenities. The homes will
employ tropical designs and low-rise architecture in tune with the surroundings.
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